I “de-planed” (Must be a Canadian thing …) in Calgary for a whirlwind tour of the cowboy city and then whisked away to the Calgary Tower for some spectacular views over Calgary and the Alberta Rockies. A cold beer was well received, as was an informative description of Calgary, The Stampede and the southern Alberta Region. It was here, within my first two hours of arrival in Canada, that I was introduced to “The Caesar”, a local cocktail made from “Clamato” (mixture of clam and tomato juice – add vodka and you’ve got your cocktail). It left it’s mark with me for the rest of the trip and believe me, the locals love it! For hospitality Canadian Cowboy style, Calgary is the place to be.
However, my visit was to be brief and before long, I was back on the coach heading for a long awaited sleep at the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel. In just over 90 minutes I had arrived and checked in. With eyes just managing to stay open, I forced myself to keep awake and enjoy the sumptuous dinner at The Grill. A few Caesars later, I checked out the nightlife of Banff including the “Crown & Rose”. Great Alberta Cowboy hospitality, some serious lessons in playing the spoons, some steps on the dance floor and a few Caesars with the locals, it was time to check out the solace of my room and the very appealing fluffy bed that awaited me. At about 1:00am, I gave in to the jetlag and crashed with anticipation of what the next day would bring in this beautiful alpine town.
As expected, the morning view from my window greeted me with sensational views of the Rocky Mountains. After a brief inspection of this castle like, historic hotel and a smorgasbord breakfast that had something for everyone, it was off to visit Payto Lake and Bow Summit en route to Lake Louise. How lucky was I to see the lake with snowflakes falling as the backdrop to the chocolate box scenery, characteristic of this part of Canada.
Banff and Lake Louise are nestled in the valleys between the snow-capped mountains of Banff National Park. A bonus is the Icefield Highway which links these jewels including Jasper - five hours of scenic splendour through valleys cut by glaciers and fast rushing-rivers, a journey that will stay in your memory. The mountains of colossal height, set against a clear blue sky slide by…Mount Assinaboine, Castle Mountain, Mount Eisenhower, Mount Edith Cavell, Mount Rundle…most Canadians can identify them on sight! If you are a first time visitor to Canada and friends and the local travel pages say you must see the Canadian Rockies, well……they’re right! There’s no place in the world that so fulfills your expectations as the Rockies - they are spectacular!
The Chateau Lake Louise was built on the lakeshore simply because it’s one of the most beautiful places on earth. The view from the Chateau reflects the overhanging glacier at the lake’s end, which occasionally drops house size chunks of ice into the water below! You can hear the ice creaking, cracking and exploding like a cannon as it makes its way down the mountain. Visitors may take a canoe out on the lake or just follow the trail up to the Agnes Lake teahouse for `tea’, cakes, and of course…café con latte. You can join an interpretive nature walking tour from the hotel, which opens your eyes to more than first meets the eye, and all around are cheeky chipmunks and squirrels!
The boys from Chateau Lake Louise guided me through the amazing Fairmont property and whet my appetite for what this great resort has to offer in both summer and winter. After the obligatory Kodak moment (from every angle) in front of the lake, I realised I was already up to shot 80! The scenery is spellbinding!
After some time in the picturesque town of Lake Louise, I had to make a decision. For the long haul traveller and lovers of indulgence, I could have quite easily returned to the Upper Banff Hot Springs for a massage and spa. On the other hand, shopping in Banff would have been great retail therapy. But for me, dedicated to nature and lover of wild animals …… I wanted to see more of this beautiful region. Discover Banff Tours are a group who specialise in small, personalised and friendly tours with a focus on nature. Offering everything from hiking, to cycling to ice walks, I took the easier option of a couple of small hikes around breathtaking Moraine Lake and the Johnston Canyon and waterfalls. I have nothing but applause for these guys and we managed to sight a Canadian Lynx, a rare species of cat that even the driver hadn’t seen in 11 years! This combined with deer, elk, squirrels and wove martin’s made for a great day.
It was then back to Banff, an old established resort overlooked by the “castle”. The beauty of the region, the clear mountain air, and the therapeutic springs attracted Victorian visitors over one hundred years ago! Tourism was the main reason that the legendary Canadian Pacific Railway ran through seemingly impossible mountain terrain to make the area accessible.
A ride on the Gondola to the top of Sulphur Mountain provides the widest panorama of the region, and a bit of exercise if you walk to the lookout. The various sightseeing tours will get an `up close’ of mountain sheep, white tailed deer, moose and the occasional bear! There is plenty to do in Banff townsite; an interesting western museum traces the history of the railroad, the settlers, and first nation peoples. A progressive art gallery and museum provides a pleasant surprise including a collection of amusing old cartoons that poke fun at tourists, as well as a large collection of ancient cowboy and settler photographs!
Banff Avenue is a shoppers delight, with western stores, gift shops, and the range of restaurants and bars. There are pleasant walks just minutes from Banff Avenue along the banks of the Bow River and up the lower mountain slopes through the alpine meadows.
That evening, it was off to Wild Bill’s where it was more than easy to get friendly with some of the locals, do a bit of boot scootin’ and yes of course drink more Caesar’s. It was here that I met my escort for the next two days, which would be on the Rocky Mountaineer.
After a fix of famous local donuts on day 3, it was all aboard the train! I boarded “Red Leaf” (standard class) and was doted on by the attendant’s enthusiasm and service for the entire day. What a legend this guy was, pointing out the Kodak moments, knowing what was around every turn as well as managing to keep my fluids up for the long journey. A great day of breathtaking views, bevies, socialising and mesmerising views of the Rockies and all that Alberta had to offer as we passed into British Columbia, the Shuswap Lakes area and the Okanagen Valley. The day had me captivated and glued to the window. The scenery is certainly not over-rated! That evening, saw most people head for the Two River Junction historical musical revue in Kamloops. For me…….. more Caesars at the local.
The next morning, it was all aboard again, but this time in Gold Leaf (first class) with overwhelming panoramic views from the Dome Car. Lobster for breakfast anyone? It was truly a big day filled with spirals, bridges, canyons and mountains. Even spotted bear! I somehow had room for more food and ate my way through the mountains into Vancouver. From the train station, it was a 5 minute cab ride before I found myself oohing and aahing at my all suite room at the Westin Grand Vancouver in the fashionable Robson Street area of the city. After settling in, and a few Caesars in the lounge bar, I decided to hit the streets of the most vibrant city in Canada……. But more on that later.
This was only half of my trip complete. I had seen some stunning scenery, wildlife, nightlife and beautiful towns. What a great trip so far! What a fantastic destination! Who’s up for the Rockies? To learn more about Alberta and British Columbia, contact Michael or one of his team of Canadian Specialists at Jetset Norwood; 219 The Parade 08 8431 8400 or email ask@jetsetnorwood.com.au